Keypads

The display on your Keypad consist of either LED's or an Alphanumeric display. The Alpha displays are more expensive then the LED display, but give you an English language display of the violated and trouble zones.They are much easier for the average homeowner.

You should have 1 keypad pad located by your entry door, and another keypad in the master bedroom. Most systems nowadays have optional wireless key fobs that can arm/disarm and trip a silent panic alarm.that you can put anywhere in the house.

Controls

The control is the heart of your system. This is the one place that you should never cut corners. You are better off spending additional money now for a control that will be capable of performing any function you may want, now or in the future, rather than installing a less powerful one now and having to replace it when you want to expand your system.

The most important feature in a control for home alarm use is the maximum number of zones that the control can support (some panels can support over 100). Remember that a zone can be a single point of protection, or you can combine multiple points into a single zone. For example, if you have 4 windows in your bedroom you could put each window a separate zone or you could combine the all the windows into 1 zone. Zoning becomes important if you start getting false alarms. If each window has its own zone, you will know exactly where the problem is. If you have 6 windows on 1 zone it will take more time to find the problem.

Additional zones will increases the price, but it may be wise to take some steps during the installation to enable you to add zones in the future without major costs. First make sure that the installer runs separate wires from each device to the control panel (home run wiring), so that re-wiring to the devices will not be needed, second get a control which can be expanded to include the total number of zones you will need in the future. This way, adding zones is simply a matter of adding expander boards and re-connecting wires at the control.

Most controls today give you the ability to have multiple user codes. You should have the ability to add, delete, or change these codes as needed. When deciding on what codes to use avoid number sequences that might be easy to guess, such as address , telephone number, or date of birth.

Arming levels:

Today's control allow many levels of arming. The basic ones are AWAY, HOME DELAY, and HOME INSTANT. AWAY arms all perimeter and interior devices and provides an exit/entry delay. It is used when everyone is leaving and no one is home. HOME and HOME DELAY arms only perimeter devices and provides exit/entry delay. It is used when you are arming the system and inside the home. HOME INSTANT arms only perimeter devices without any exit/entry delay. It is used when everyone is at home and no one is expected to enter the house. (There is no delay on this setting. Anyone opening a door will set off the alarm).

Bypassing zones and forced arming:

Sometimes you may want to disconnect or bypass one or more zones. If you are having a door or window replaced, or a motion sensor has been damaged or causing false alarms, you may have to bypass the protection until your security company can reinstall protection or replace the defective device. Forced arming is the arming of a system with one or more zones in trouble. It is similar to automatic bypass with one exception. On some systems, if the troubled zone returns to normal after the system is force armed it can becomes active in the system.. This is helpful if the zone was a motion detector that was not reset when you were arming the system but does reset a minute later.

A variation of bypassing is called swinger shunt. This is a programmed control panel function that will automatically bypass a zone if it trips more than a preprogrammed number of times. For example if a severe storm should cause a motion detector to continually trip, the control will bypass it after it trips X amounts of times to prevent additional signals. Once a zone is bypassed in this manner it will remain bypassed until the system is disarmed.

Hardwire or Wireless?

This is always a difficult decision. Most Wireless systems in use today are very reliable. The cost for wireless is usually a little bit more expensive than a hardwire system. Wireless equipment cost significantly more than wired devices, but the time to install a wireless is less.The labor savings almost offsets the additional equipment cost. One important consideration, when you move, if you plan on taking the security system with you, it will be less expensive to have a wireless system re-installed when you move.

The only downside to wireless today is that the batteries must be changed in every transmitter periodically, In some cases, the Security Company must do this. Some new wireless alarms have batteries that may last 5+ years before replacement. If you go with a wireless system make sure that the control supervises every transmitter for low battery and missing transmitter. This way you will know if a device has been tampered with or if other problems develop. Many "low end" wireless systems sold in hardware or Home Centers do not fully supervise the transmitters. It is suggested you spend the extra money for a truly supervised system.

Monitoring

Monitoring is the connection of your security system to a remote Central Station. When your system trips the signal is sent via the phone lines to the Central Station where the operator will verify the alarm and call the appropriate authorities.. This is a must if you have a fire system installed, or want want Panic or Medical monitoring. When you have a monitored system installed you can specify what action the monitoring company should take when they get a signal. In addition to calling the police or fire departments, they will also notify persons on your call list (neighbor or family). The monitoring company will also establish a "Pass-code or Code word" with you that will enable them to verify that the person they are speaking with is the authorized person. Any other code word than the one authorized, will tell the central station that you are "under duress" and the police will be notified of the situation.

There are other ways these signals can be sent. You can use your regular telephone line, Cellular, or Long Range Radio (limited areas), Derived Channel (from your phone company), or a dedicated line from your home to the police department (limited areas).

For home use, the most common approach is to use your phone line to transmit the signal. If you decide to use this, make sure that the Security Company installs a phone line monitor. If a phone line is cut, this will cause the keypad to buzz, or set off a siren. To ensure your system is working properly, have your security company enable the test signal. This is a special signal that your control can send to the Central Station weekly, confirming that your system is still working. Remember to test your system at least once a week.

The best systems today use cellular backup. In the event your phone line is down, the system uses the Cellular network to transmit the alarm signals. I would recommend cellular backup for every alarm owner. The addition cost of this backup is about $10-15 extra per month, plus the cost of the cellular equipment ($300-500).

Most false alarms are caused by improper operation or improper maintenance of the system. You must make sure that anyone operating the system is familiar with its operation. Having the central station verify an alarm can also help reduce false alarms.

Many local Police departments are starting to fine homeowners and businesses for false alarms. To reduce the chance of a false alarm, use dual-tech sensors in the installation of your system, or upgrade to dual-tech sensors if you are getting false alarms on your current motion sensors.

Reduced Insurance Premiums:

Many Home Owner Insurance Companies offer discounts of up to 20% for the installation of monitored burglary and fire alarms. Check with your company to see if you qualify you for a discount.